Phoebe went to JACKSON & RYE 15/08/2015
Specs: 
Overall Rating: 
Average Cost pp: (main, coffee) £12
Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road/ Oxford Circus
When deciding on brunch I need a less greedy and more ruthless adjudicator. If i’m honest, I slipped this option into the ballot more as a frontage to appear that I was not simply appealing to my own yearning. Not wanting to be a brunch tyrant, I begrudging obliged to meet Belle and Elo at Jackson and Rye in Soho.
As if by clockwork our exuberant waitress ‘Tricky’ promptly supplied us with menus and water. The service was efficient and well oiled, but militant with slightly feigned friendliness. I imagine its me being pernickety, because it was quick and the staff were cheery and attentive.
From truffled mac n cheese to pecan pie with rye whiskey ice cream the menu would cause distress for even the most resolute decision maker. How do you like your eggs in the morning? as im sure most egg dreams/desires/fetishes are accommodated for at Jackson & Rye. My brunch companions and I were clearly not feeling particularly adventurous, all habitually inclined to order more breakfasty dishes.
I had salt beef hash, kale, poached eggs & hollandaise. The eggs were runny but beef was sparse, hollandaise was average and kale was bland . Kale possesses magical power; its addition to the naughtiest of foods creates the illusion of a nutritionally balanced meal. Deceived by the kale smokescreen, I atleast finished feeling like I had chosen responsibly. Elo had avocado ‘Benedict’ with maple cured bacon,poached eggs, hollandaise, watercress and toast. It was good but she felt the proportions were all wrong. More toast, less avo. It just lacked anything remarkable. Left disappointed, Elo proceed to order a second round of sweet potato fries. These however were sweet , soft and perfectly salty. Belle’s smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, country style potatoes, spring onion and toast was slightly more promising. However the eggs were a little cold, and there wasnt huge of amounts of salmon. It was slightly school canteen, nothing notably amazing. Food was agreeable, but uninspired, insipid and certainly nothing to write home about.
It wasn’t what I expected at all. No red leather, strobe lighting, tacky retro duke box or high school cheerleaders on rollerskates posing as staff. The blame for this misconception lay entirely with my ignorance and prejudice. I often tread with caution when visiting restaurants that have everything but the kitchen sink on their menu. Both pancakes and rib eye together on the menu had wrongly conjured classic commercial, stereotypical chain diner image. It was less deep-south roadside and more 1940’s New York. The interior was stylish with a well stocked, beautiful bar, art deco cut glass, plenty of brass and low lighting. It was slicker and more refined. Through lack of better description, an embodiment of the American dream. The restaurant was buzzing, lively and busy , if a little too cramped.
Despite the American ‘themed’ menu the overall ambiance was not too gimmicky, perhaps a few tourists but very much the clientele one would expect from the area. I’m not inherently disposed to a restaurant of this nature, nonetheless the decor was tastefully novel it felt unaffected. It was fun, well located and well price . The food was displeasing, but I dont think anybody would argue you go with the expectation of fine dining, you’re buying into the variety and concept . I liked the bustle, but it certainly isn’t a quiet lazy Sunday retreat. The stir and animation from the fringing streets cascades into the restaurant, and could be a welcomed perk to an alcohol fueled Saturday night with friends. For me however, brunch is a relaxed, take your time, read your paper kind of affair. I think Jackson & Rye is more compatible with a boozy supper , an occasion that thrives on a more atmospheric, jazzy and buoyant character.
The London Brunch Blog 