Next-level nostalgia as well as never ending delectation

Penny went to THE MODERN PANTRY 15/4/2015

Specs: 👓

Overall Rating:            ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Average Cost pp:        (coffee, main) £12.50

Nearest Tube:             Farringdon

http://www.themodernpantry.co.uk/

With busy work schedules a goodbye lunch/dinner to mourn/celebrate my departure from work was abandoned in favour of a Modern Pantry brunch. Next door to what is soon to be my ex place of work the Modern Pantry is a much frequented haunt and an establishment I will miss greatly. I was never far from the spread leftovers post meetings nor to go without a slice of their heavenly quiche on the reg (from their literal pantry ‘round back) despite hefty price tags. I have eaten here several times and as I walked into work dazed by the mid-April sun I built up a ravenous appetite for what I could only imagine would be the notoriously tasty and berry good pancakes. Alas. No Pancakes! The breakfast menu had been expanded and amended since my last visit and in the pancakes place read an interesting proposition of waffles, pineapple, coconut and some other ingredients I was not accustomed with, namely cassava, which google tells me is a ‘nutrient-rich root vegetable of South American origin’ (only to heighten my intrigue further). As my colleagues arrived and deliberated pedestrian although equally tempting plates on the egg variation, I listened to my gut and chanced the alluring waffles.

The Modern Pantry is nestled in St John’s Square, Clerkenwell, set back from traffic and London hustle the pretty townhouse possesses oodles of charm with a bright, clean and modern French bistro feel to it. The Al fresco dining in the square is enchanting in the summer but inside the venue space itself is tight. Booking isn’t essential but a good idea; at risk of being squeezed onto communal dining tables request a separate table or upstairs dining when booking. For a team of six there were awkward clashings of knees and moments of clumsy footsy beneath the narrow table. Our food arrived promptly and the highly anticipated waffles were such a treat. The waffle broke apart on touch (there’s nothing I dislike more than a effortful glutinous waffley stodge, same goes for pancakes) and was slathered in tangy and fresh pineapple and thyme salsa, accompanied by silky coconut yoghurt that presented the perfect balance of bitterness to the plate that complemented the overall sweetness of the dish. Essentially it was a very very tasty and textured adult Pina Colada on a plate. Heavenly.

Waffles aside there are an array of brunch options at the Modern Pantry that are sure to please all, from the dippy eggs with vegemite soldiers to the fruit salad in rose and lime syrup, the plates are simple and obvious breakfast combos with interesting, but not without purpose, modern twists…as the restaurant’s name suggests. The coffee is always good and the staff hugely attentive and friendly – a real asset to the eatery. From a self-indulgent viewpoint the restaurant holds a special place. Soon to be moving on, the eatery is a proper delight that I will truly miss…Not for long however, for shortly my new residence of work are to relocate to Clerkenwell! But until then the Modern Pantry and all its culinary offerings provide next-level nostalgia as well as never ending delectation.

It was posher than I expected

Penny went to NOPI 31/1/2015

Specs: 👓

Overall Rating:            ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Average Cost pp:        (coffee, main) £12

Nearest Tube:             Piccadilly Circus

http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/locations

So I went to Nopi on Saturday. One of Ottolengi’s ventures, it carries similar Persian vibes to the chef’s other venues notably ‘Ottolenghi’, yet its atmosphere felt quite different. It was posher than I expected. Not the informal take out, communal and buffet-esque layout as at Ottolenghi. And certainly no presentations of pastel tinged giant meringues – iconic of Ottelengi’s food-pornographic displays of desserts and colourful salads. In fact I felt quite ill-prepared as Will and I were seated in our slobby weekend wear surrounded by an older clientele dressed to the nines in the early brunching hours. It turned out to be quite the formal brunch. I suppose I favour the sorts of brunch where you can relax and exchange the week’s events over endless coffees without feeling obliged to budge. An informal, lazy kind of affair. Not to say that formal isn’t nice, just not what I was expecting.

Nopi is very cosmopolitan. But this did feel right for the location. Not in a residential area but surrounded by tourist hot spots and obligatory arrivistes. Its name later I discovered is synonymous with its location – an acronym for North of Piccadilly. The interior resembled that of an upmarket boutique hotel, decked out in white and brassy gold furnishing, it bought to mind the Dior ad. Charlize would not have gone amiss strutting on through chucking her gold pearls about the place. But this didn’t seem over-opulent, was kept minimalist and amplified the Middle-Eastern treatment of the restaurant. Some artsier touches were maintained also, old black and white art house movies projected on white, public loo-splashback style tiles and 1920’s art deco doors that once provided gateway to Harvey Nics.

I ordered the French toast which was somewhat sidelined by its accompaniments of star anise sugar, orange yoghurt and berry compote. It smelt marvelous on arrival – syrupy liquorishy and sweet, but the French toast itself was rubbery, a bit sickly, glutinous and hard to finish. The flavours however were nicely balanced (although I missed any citrusy notes) and made for a recovery on behalf of the toast. Will had what some might call, a ‘posh bacon sandwich’. Rashers sandwiched between thickly cut focaccia, laden with tasty coriander aioli and a perfectly runny fried egg on the side. It was good. For what was ultimately a dressed up bacon sarnie however, there was not enough intrigue about it to justify the price at nine quid a pop.

The service was very good overall, quite militant, clearly very well instructed and this only added to the formal ambiance, but they were very attentive. One peculiar happening was the staff meeting held in open view of the restaurant; this was odd and quite off-putting. We also raised an eyebrow when waiting staff went out of their way to highlight, upon pouring, that the water was ‘filtered’, hesitant when presented with the bill that we’d forked out a load on tap water passed through a Brita jug. But this wasn’t included, service however was.

I have to say probably my favourite part of the entire experience was the loo, not saying the dining experience was comparatively poor, moreover that the toilets were such great fun. Straight out of an Alice in Wonderland-cum-trippy David Lynch film the toilets were composed of angled full length mirrors that reflected several copies of oneself, so far that you are unsure whether you’re coming or going. After reveling in its enchantment for a moment or two I quickly found it was a little tricky to find the door to a cubicle – tedious, especially after one too many ‘filtered waters’…nevertheless it was worth the wait if only to explore which parts of my hair I’d failed to straighten that morning a little longer. Overall Nopi is a pleasant destination, the food is good…-ish but overpriced. Personally I found the setting too forced for the casual weekend brunch.

A rather Goode and Wright place

Phoebe went to GOODE AND WRIGHT 21/3/2015

Specs: 👓

Overall Rating:            ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Average Cost pp:        (coffee, main, side) £18

Nearest Tube:             Ladbroke Grove

http://www.goodeandwright.co.uk/

Notting Hill is hardly in the sticks, but it is slightly further astray from my typical brunch stomping ground. Alex is a vegetarian, which can require strategic prudence when settling on location and has on occasions been known to provoke distress. Sometimes hysteria. However, Goode and Wright followed by a stroll through Portobello for the purchase of pudding and banal tat was nothing short of idyllic.

The two of us turned up unfashionably late for a booking initially reserved for four, and were slightly concerned the staff may be more than a little peeved. To the contrary! Charming, friendly and welcoming. We were greeted at the door and chaperoned to our table. The service was cordial and use of my first name was an intimate gesture that made the whole experience feel personal. The interior, vibe and staff were poles apart from my preconception, admittedly occasioned exclusively from their online menu. The options of crab, truffle and ganache for brunch are oh so decadent but hint to a ritzy and glamorous affair. The interior however was modest, decorous and comfortable. The walls of the unexpectedly small space were panelled with dark wood, above this were kitsch and mismatched framed photos. The benches, cushions and watering cans filled with flowers created a relaxed and easy-going ambience, a welcomed contrast from the haute fine dining character I had envisaged.

Decent coffee. One would hope so for the size and price. The staff were conscientious without being overbearing and service was quick, although we did order before the habitual 11.00 surge in hungry and hungovers. I ordered sweet potato hash, with chorizo, spinach and poached egg with a generous side of black pudding. Alex had duck egg omelette with ricotta and tomatoes, and we both shared chunky chips with truffle and caper mayonnaise washed down with cappuccinos. The hash was good, delicious ingredients and more bounce than your homespun bacon and egg. Mine was cold, enough to mention but not complain. Portion sizes were scanty, I became increasingly thankful for my indecision and gluttony when making my extra orders. In due course however, we did feel suitably fed and watered. The black pudding was faultless and I cant express any criticisms for the piece de resistance, chunky chips with truffle. Alex’s was average, but if I evaluate with complete veracity – in my opinion- was the most lacklustre item on the menu. A faultless brunch demands two indispensible ingredients; meat and carbs. Though Alex would deny this until he was blue in the face.

Hankering for a sweet treat I was further tempted by the brioche. However rather fancying a stroll through the market, we settled on doughnuts that we spied on a stall earlier. The price was to be expected from its location and reputation, an unsurprising total expenditure in neither its excess nor economy. l liked the polarity of its homestyle tone, leisurely attendance and food with urbane allure . It was not particularly fancy, so not my first choice for an indulgent celebration. It was however, perfect for our needs and the whole experience made for a very pleasant Saturday morning indeed.