Phoebe went to DISHOOM 15/3/2015
Specs: 👓
Overall Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Average Cost pp: (coffee, selection of mains to share) £15
Nearest Tube: Covent Garden
As a mothers day endeavour, my sisters and I arranged to treat the lady of the day to brunch, at the restaurant of the moment. Fusion food London is rhapsodizing over Bombay/British Dishoom – voted best restaurant by yelp! and clinching prime haunt for brunch by trustworthy foodie Clerkenwellboy, I had been chomping at the bit to go. Our booking was a blessing, and liberated us from the 45-minute wait (I overheard this was mandatory for walk-ins).
Inside was stylish and smart, not too glitzy or garish. It is charmingly au courant and an artistic harmony of both Indian and English cultures. It feels like how I imagine an Indian designer would envisage English cafés in the 1930’s. Plenty of dark wood with a polished finish, abstract patterning and stylish art deco mirrors. The mood was dynamic and vibrantly excited, wall-to-wall with young couples, trendy youths and mothers with doting daughters (such as I). Staff were particularly attentive and cheery, despite the conspicuous bustle and organised chaos.
The food is affordable and interesting, synthesising breakfast staples with Indian vivacity. We set off to a good start with bottomless chai latte’s, spiced rich warm milk in delightful glass tumblers. Anything ‘bottomless’ gets my seal of approval, and there certainly did not appear to be a bottom in sight. Our chipper waiter was particularly accomplished in replenishment, an issue that I had been on tenterhooks about prior to ordering. Whilst waiting for the eldest of the brood, we ordered fruit and yoghurt. Not your usual characterless and unremarkable ‘diet food’, however, but fresh mango, blueberries, melon and strawberries smothered in creamy vanilla infused yoghurt. The no frills British gem ‘bacon sarnie’ has been spruced up – and dare I say it – improved. Ginger pig bacon, cream cheese, chilli tomato jam wrapped in freshly baked naan. Same goes for the egg naan. Even the extra side of masala beans has the upper hand over your greasy-spoon Heinz (of which I am usually a devotee). The Keema per eedu – spicy chicken and chicken liver with runny eggs and their famous pau is incredible. A must! And finally, the highlight, cheesey herby chilli toast with two runny eggs by the name of Kerijwal. All this interspersed with rhythmic chai refills; comfort in a cup! We in hindsight wrongly ordered before my eldest sister’s arrival, which unfortunately never transpired. For reasons unknown to us all, she had mistakenly gone to the Dishoom in Shoreditch! One man down meant a slight oversight in ordering, but this was not a problem as the waiter voluntarily prepped a doggy bag.
Ultimately, its gingered up comfort food, hearty, satiating and finger licking good. All presented on pretty and quirky china printed plates. Great food, great place and great location. My one gripe was that we were seated downstairs, with seemingly less character and away from the compelling essence that makes Dishoom so distinctive. The unavoidable clamour, darkness and noise wasn’t opportune for tranquil Sunday brunch chitchatting with friends or family. Despite this subsidiary observation, the food is reasonably priced and exquisitely unique. Notwithstanding, book a table upstairs and always check with your guests, which branch you are meeting in!
The London Brunch Blog 